Stanning the ‘Stans? A Rundown of Central Asia and What To Expect in Each Country
For travelers from the Americas, Central Asia is a relatively mysterious region of the world due to its geographical distance and cultural unfamiliarity. Famed throughout history as the lands traversed by the Silk Road, only remnants from that ancient time period remain. Today, the influences of Islam, Soviet Russia, and globalization go much further in informing modern-day society.
Following the collapse of the USSR in the early 1990s, Central Asia’s republics were shaped by new political boundaries that crisscrossed centuries of continental trade, tribal migrations, and colonizations.
For curious and adventurous travelers who are willing to relegate Europe and Eastern Asia to flyover status, here is a rundown of how the Stans transcend their borders and a closer look at the particular features that make each country unique.
Centering Central Asia
Central Asia’s location to the south of Russia, north of Iran and Afghanistan, west of China, and east of the Caspian Sea places it squarely in the center of Asia, landlocked on all sides, making it the world’s most far-removed region from the continental coasts.
The Stans are exceedingly safe countries to visit, as violent crime rates are low, and for travelers coming from the United States, there is a perceptible tone shift in the realm of public safety. Displays of potentially threatening behavior are almost imperceptible, especially when compared to American metropolitan areas. Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, and Turkmenistan are all classified as Level 1: Exercise Normal Precautions by the U.S. State Department. Tajikistan is listed as Level 2: Exercise Increased Caution due to the potential for conflict along their borders, but these flash points are easily avoided by maintaining a safe distance and staying within tourist areas.
The Stans are predominantly Muslim; however, their religious practices were strongly influenced by Soviet policies, which discouraged outward religious expression and converted mosques into functional spaces such as storage warehouses or factories. The result is a society driven more by cultural traditions than religious ones. People tend to be polite reserved, and not express strong political or religious opinions publicly.
Life is centered around families, and it is common for young people to get married and have children as soon as they enter adulthood. Homosexuality is not expressed or accepted, with the majority of men and women adhering to the cultural expectations of their communities. Public spaces are very family and child-centric, and for tourists, it can feel like there is not much to do in terms of activities or entertainment, even in the cities.
Women are free to choose whether they cover their heads, and either choice is acceptable. At times, the covering is worn more as a fashion statement than a religious one. Alcohol is available, but it is consumed sparingly, usually in private, and not by everyone. The prevalence of bars and clubs varies from place to place, with more options in the larger Uzbek or Kazakh cities. Karaoke bars and shisha lounges are popular and prevalent, but even in establishments where alcohol is served, most patrons opt for tea or soft drinks.
Nomadic cultural practices continue to exist, albeit in a modernized form. The Soviets’ intention to collectivize an already collective culture did lasting damage to the nomadic way of life, forcing people to move into towns and cities, foregoing their customs and practices to adopt unfamiliar sedentary lifestyles. Today, semi-nomadic people reside in towns and villages during the winter and then, in the summer, set off with their animals to higher elevations or remote grazing lands.
Following the collapse of the Soviet Union and the formation of the independent Central Asian republics, homegrown authoritarian leaders moved in to fill the political void. Cults of personality took over, and every post-Soviet president stayed put as long as they could, deposed only by death. Now, most countries continue to be ruled indefinitely by a second or third wave of unopposed leaders. Islam was reinstated and public religious life restored, but governments limit the influence of religion in politics, as they believe it will undermine their rule and threaten the security of the region.
Most tourists to Central Asia hail from nearby countries such as China and India, so visitors from the Americas are rare. They are welcomed with warmth and curiosity due to their novelty, and travelers who exhibit more typical Western appearance or dress may be greeted with repeated “hellos” when walking down the street.
Knowledge of the Russian language is incredibly useful throughout the Stans, as it is commonly spoken in addition to the local language. English is less common, and in the countries that use the Cyrillic alphabet, basic comprehension can be difficult for English speakers. Without knowledge of the prevailing languages, the region can, at times, be a challenge to navigate. Fortunately, a translator app can bridge many gaps, but it has its limitations.
Besides the cost of flights and some multi-day tours, traveling through Central Asia is affordable, especially compared to skyrocketing prices elsewhere. For example, a taxi across town may cost only one or two dollars when summoned via the local ride-hailing apps.
Meat and milk are heavily featured in Central Asian cuisine; however, each country has its own dishes and interpretations. Plov, or rice pilaf, has a presence everywhere, but the ingredients and preparations vary from region to region. Also prevalent are samsa, a bread or pastry stuffed with meat or cheese, and is the ideal meal on the go. International cuisines and veg options can be found in the cities and larger towns, but within the local cuisine, a meat-free meal is incomprehensible.
Uzbekistan
When Central Asia was ruled by powerful khans and divided along tribal boundaries, the predominant urban centers of trade and culture were based in what is now modern-day Uzbekistan. To visit Uzbekistan is to tour Central Asia’s architectural marvels, which are impressive in their detail and design, and exhibit a material documentation of a parade of empires—the Mongols, Persians, Ottomans, Russians—who moved in, made their mark and then left it all behind.
In an effort to revitalize the old towns and attract tourists, the Uzbek government invested in the revival and preservation of not only the buildings and streets but also the country’s cultural heritage, offering incentives for artisans to continue producing their country’s own unique styles of carpet weaving, silk production, and ceramics. Also, unlike any of the other Stans, Uzbekistan has a reliable and comprehensive train system to travel throughout the country easily.
In Samarkand, three towering madrassas face off over Registan Square, their teal domes and ornately tiled minarets standing in solidarity astride the high vaulted entrances, resplendent in their decoration. In Bukhara, ancient trading domes squat at the nexus of the old city streets, where traders bought and sold goods along the Silk Road centuries ago. These cavernous halls remain active today, crowded with sellers and handcrafted goods.
Khiva’s pristine old town is constructed entirely out of sand-colored stone, and a stroll along the narrow cobbled streets is a walk back in time. Towers banded with alternating shades of blue and green tiles technicolor the monochrome backdrop, and the oddly proportioned Kalta Minor Minaret stands unrivaled in its girth. The Fergana Valley, a fertile agricultural region so coveted that a zig-zag border carves out a piece for everyone, is the epicenter of Uzbek artisans and where travelers come to find bright colored, traditional patterned silks, intricately painted ceramics, and fine-detailed carpets.
Uzbekistan’s cuisine is regarded as the tastiest and most diverse in Central Asia, from the classic regional staples to distinctive local dishes that are colorful, flavorful, and varied. Their status as the top chefs in the region is not surprising when visiting one of the buzzing bazaars, where copious varieties of nuts, fruits, vegetables, bread, and spices are piled fresh and gleaming in the stalls, their bounty and attractiveness indisputable.
The best time to visit is during April and May, before the extreme heat settles in, or in September when the pomegranates and melons are in season.
Kyrgyzstan
The landscape of Kyrgyzstan is nothing short of glorious. It has a striking similarity to Switzerland—craggy, high-altitude mountains stretch indefinitely into the horizon, snowy peaks reflect in the mirrors of electric blue glacial lakes, and green meadows blaze with orange poppies. But where Swiss villages tuck into valleys and spread out across emerald slopes, Kyrgyzstan is populated only by untouched nature, the landscape remarkable in its immaculate desolation.
The saline, spring-fed Issyk-Kul Lake is the second-highest lake in the world also one of the deepest, and in an unexpected twist, it never freezes over. The small towns and yurt villages surrounding the lake are the jumping-off point for visitors to explore copper-colored canyons, ease into hot springs, and hike or bike through the mountains.
While the main cities of Bishkek and Osh can be interesting for a day or two, they are not the draw—a visit to Kyrgyzstan is best spent in immersed in nature. Besides venturing into the mountains, must-dos include spending a night in a yurt, riding a horse, and witnessing an eagle hunting demonstration.
This abundance of undisturbed beauty and scant human presence comes with logistical conundrums. Navigating the country can be challenging due to limited road access and the difficulty of obtaining accurate, up-to-date information, especially with a language barrier. Multi-day guided hikes or horseback treks through the mountains to yurt villages are the most straightforward approach to seeing the country and accessing exceptional locales. Exploring the country can be done independently, as more resources are becoming available, but it is an unpredictable journey, and travelers must be confident in their skills for off-road driving, navigation, and basic car maintenance.
Food and lodging in Kyrgyzstan are not particularly expensive; however, the costs for all-inclusive, multi-day tours quickly add up, as they are priced according to the purchasing power of the tourists, not the local economy. The ideal time to visit is from the end of June until early September to guarantee that passes will be open and tours will be running.
Tajikistan
While Tajikistan has similarities to Kyrgyzstan in its mountainous landscape, rugged infrastructure, and developing economy, the countries diverge on a cultural level. Tajikistan is an example of modern-day Persian culture that has been able to evolve independently of hardline religious policies. For this reason, the country has become a popular destination for expat Afghan and Iranian tourists.
One of the main draws to the country is the journey along the Pamir Highway, a 1,200 km road trip through snow-topped summits and sprawling mountain vistas, connecting the flowery capital Dushanbe with Osh in Kyrgyzstan. Tour companies organize all-inclusive, multi-day Pamir Highway road trips, with stops built in to hike through the mountains and visit local villages.
The designation as a highway can be misleading, as most of the route is unpaved, dusty, and requires a 4×4 vehicle and careful driving. Adventurous types tackle the highway independently, some even choosing to hitch their way along, but rough conditions and limited services can prove daunting.
The highway runs along the border with Afghanistan, where a river divides the countries. The border here is tightly controlled, and there are several checkpoints that require permits to pass, although, on market days, Afghanis are permitted to cross into Tajikistan to sell their wares in the bazaar.
Close to the border with Uzbekistan is Panjakent, a tranquil, leafy town where low-hanging clouds snag on soft green mountains. A few hours’ drive from the city are the Seven Lakes, a lineup of blue-hued lakes marching upwards into the mountains. The road passes through rocky villages where the local herders live in relative isolation, their flocks of sheep and goats obstructing the cars as they plod down the road on their way to graze in the shadows of insurmountable peaks.
Kazakhstan
As the center of a robust oil and gas industry and the ninth largest country in the world, Kazakhstan is the most industrialized and wealthy of the Stans. However, most of the country’s land area is occupied by the flat, empty grasslands of the Kazakh steppe, an endless desert where nomadic tribes and Silk Road traders once traversed. Hours of driving through these featureless landscapes takes a toll on the psyche, rendering the prospect of crossing the country on a camel unfathomable.
Kazakhstan’s major cities, Almaty and Astana, are each a modern metropolis with a mix of shiny, futuristic architecture, expansive green parks, brutalist Soviet blocks, and colorful Orthodox cathedrals. Turkistan, a region that spans the Stans, is also a city of the same name in Kazakhstan that showcases architecture similar to what is found in Uzbekistan—bright blue onion domes, arched portals of towering madrassas, and ancient stone mausoleums.
While the majority of the country is uninhabited and desolate, Kazakhstan has some remarkable geological features that are not found anywhere else in the world. Southeast of Almaty and close to the Kyrgyz border is Kaindy Lake, a slate-blue mountain lake that was formed when an earthquake flooded water into a valley and submerged the existing forest. Now, the remains of birch trees stand at attention in the lake, gray and ghostly, the reflections stretching their trunks even taller. In the far west, next to the Caspian Sea, is Mangystau, an otherworldly region that had once been the floor of an ancient ocean. Millions of years ago, the water receded, exposing the land to the elements and reshaping the landscape, creating dramatic rock cliffs, colorful stratifications, and lunar terrains. Today, the area can be explored on multi-day tours that go off-road through cracking clay pans and in between herds of grazing camels to reach underground mosques, Jurassic-age canyons, and a valley scattered with mysterious balls of rock.
Turkmenistan
Turkmenistan, another powerhouse hydrocarbon producer, is not only the least traveled Stan but is one of the least visited countries in the world. Tourists must obtain a visa far in advance and arrange a tour through a government-approved travel agency. The country is a closed society and has similarities with North Korea in regard to personal freedom and limited connection to the world beyond its borders. The experience of visiting Turkmenistan is a strange one.
In the capital, Ashgabat, huge but remarkable marble buildings sprawl across the mostly empty city. These displays of opulent wealth and over-the-top architecture fall flat when it becomes clear that the citizens do not benefit from their land’s natural resources as much as the Italian marble suppliers. Thus, a visit to Turkmenistan is more about incredulous observation than authentic insights. Despite the prevalence of Central Asians touring their neighboring Stans, very few have visited Turkmenistan, and conversely, the Turkmen people often do not have the mobility or resources to travel outside of their own country.