The Creole Way
Seychelles is such a historical melange of people from all over the world, that everyone is made to feel at home.
In a world which sometimes seems increasingly uniform and monochromatic, this archipelago of 115 islands on the eastern coast of Africa stands colourfully apart, celebrating difference, proud of the diverse influences that have created the Seychelles’ unique Creole culture.
Almost all of the world’s great cultural influences have come together here - African, Asian and European. Each nationality has brought something of their own culture and history - a dish, a dance, an instrument, a song.
The country was a French colony and then a British one, and was populated by settlers as well as African slaves. The subsequent intermingling of many peoples and cultures has resulted in a multi-ethnic, multicultural society. Victoria might be one of the world’s smallest capital cities, but still it boasts a Roman Catholic cathedral, an Anglican cathedral, a Seventh-Day Adventist Church, a mosque, a Hindu Temple.
Tourists at the Navasakthi Vinayagar Hindu Temple in Victoria
It is this kaleidoscope of influences - as well as the natural beauty of the country, of course -that draws visitors from all over the world, many coming back time and time again to sample from a cornucopia of experiences for all tastes and moods.
Creole, the local language, has its roots in 17th Century French, with the additional input of African and Malagasy languages, as well as a sprinkling of English and Hindi words, phrases and cadences, reflecting the political history of the country and the struggles for power and influence that have raged back and forth over hundreds of years. The Creole language is now stable and widely spoken, and recognised as one of the national languages, along with English and French.
Delicious fish
Of course, where there is a vibrant cultural mix, there will also be creative cuisine, and the Seychelles offers a sumptuous spread. Given its geography and climate it is not surprising that fish and fruit are found on every menu, and foodies will identify the echoes of Africa, India, China, and Europe in the preparation.
Local grilled fish
Fish curry is a favourite, made with coconut rice and spicy tomatoes and chutney and roti, as is the local ‘Creole fish’ - a spicy fish stew with tomatoes, onions, peppers, garlic and ginger, usually served with rice. Fruit bat curry is a unique Seychelles delicacy, as is soupe de tectec, a soup made from pumpkin and a small white shellfish collected from the beaches. To finish the meal, there’s the classic desert ladob pudding - breadfruit, plantains or cassava cooked in coconut milk, nutmeg, vanilla and sugar. Locally grown fruits like mangoes, papayas and coconuts are widely available, and made into delicious fresh fruit juices. Locally made alcoholic beverages include palm wine, calou, made from coconut sap, and bacca, a powerful sugarcane liquor, drunk on ceremonial occasions.
Music and dance
Music fills the air in this country, drifting out of homes, hotels, restaurants and shops, and acting as the cornerstone of the many local festivals and concerts celebrated all year round. And where there is music there is, of course, dance.
Moutia dancer with band | Image courtesy of Michel Denousse - Tourism Seychelles
In the popular sega tambour, one can hear the strains of both Africa and France, usually delivered in fast upbeat tempos and underpinned by driving African-influenced drums and other percussion instruments. Other popular genres of music in the Seychelles include reggae, zouk, and moutya, which are all influenced also by African and even Caribbean music.
The sensuous moutya dance, listed as a UNESCO intangible heritage, unique to the Seychelles, was considered so overtly sexy that it was banned by the colonial authorities! From the energetic hip-and-shoulder-fueled sega, to the European-flavoured waltz, the Seychellois are moved to move and for visitors, it is infectious.
All this food, music and dance fuels a vibrant nightlife in Victoria’s bars, hotels and restaurants, or in a more leisurely setting, perhaps in a casual open-air restaurant on a secluded island, or around a beach bonfire on a warm evening.
Domaine de Val des Près- immerse yourself in traditional Creole culture at this unique craft village, part of the Patrimwann – or heritage trail – in the Seychelles.
The annual Festival Kreol, held in October, celebrates and promotes the Creole culture and heritage and the island culture, through cuisine, clothing, art and crafts, music and dancing. Cultural activities are organised on various islands, culminating in a vibrant march through Victoria.
It has become a near-cliche to talk about the friendliness of locals, but in Seychelles it can be seen, heard and felt. Smiles are handed out generously and visitors are welcomed and celebrated with hospitality and goodwill. After all, Seychelles is such a historical melange of people from all over the world, that everyone is made to feel at home.
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